How the Tie is created...?

In order to ensure that the tie represents a judicious blend of aesthetics and durability, the importance of the manufacturing process cannot be overemphasized. Tie making and the technique of folding men's fat ties is an art that has passed down for generations. The first step in making a tie is to decide on the fabric. Popular tie manufacturing materials include silk, satin, polyester, wool, nylon, cotton, rayon, and linen, with silk being the most favored. Tie manufacturers across the globe generally import silk from China. Even Como, Italy is reputed to be a revered destination as far as ties are concerned.

Often, professional tie manufacturers with an eye for detail actually get the fabric weaved specifically for a particular tie, incorporating the relevant color and pattern. When an innovative design is suggested, there is sharing of ideas between the cloth manufacturers and the ultimate tie designers. A basic tie will have three main parts; the shell, the interlining, and the facing. The shell is the outer material of the tie, the interlining is the component that gives the tie its ‘body’, and the facing is the lining along the inner edge of the tie that is responsible for rendering a semblance of crispness to the tie.

The production lifecycle of a tie could be divided into 5 steps:

1. Preparing the shell: The basic raw material of a tie is 40-yard bolts of cloth. This cloth is then cut down in such a way that the maximum number of ties can be created from the given piece of cloth.

2. Introducing the facing: After the outer fabric is cut to the desired shape, composed of three distinct sections, these sections are then sewed together. The tie maker now inserts a facing along the rear portion of the tie’s ends. This facing is generally a slim piece of cloth made from the same material as the tie. While the three-quarter facing extends only six to seven inches above the end of the tie, the full facing is incorporated almost till the knot. Next, approximately an inch of the shell is folded in such a way that a point is formed. This point is then sewed into a hem.

3. Pressing: The almost completed tie is now pressed flat to provide a neat appearance. Ties are usually either pocket-pressed or piece-pressed.

4. Interlining: The interlining is stitched using nylon thread to the middle portion of the tie. Earlier this task was carried out manually; nowadays the stitching is done using a Liba machine. Slip-stitching ensures that the stitching is not too tight.

5. Lining turning: The tie has, till now, been created inside out. Now, is the time to turn it right side out by slipping one end through the other. This task is carried out by a turning machine. Finally, a small piece of cloth is stitched to the narrow end of the tie at the back, which acts as a support as well as doubles up as the brand label.

Both the shell and the lining are together responsible for the look of the tie, and decide how the tie will fall across the wearer’s chest and stay in place. Therefore, if the shell is made of a lighter material, then it makes sense to incorporate a heavier lining and vice versa. The length of the tie varies from around 48 to 62 inches, with the most common length being around 55 inches. In exceptional cases, extra long ties may be manufactured. Some tie manufacturers use microfiber polyesters that are soft as silk and look equally rich. One of the most prized ties is the multi-fold tie that is hand-folded and does not have an interlining. While normal Belisi ties would take a certain amount of time to manufacture, extra long formal neckties, extra long luxury ties and extra-long paisley ties would require added effort and time.